An adventure blog as I create space for new experiences, people, feelings, and more.

Trolltunga!

There are two parts to this story. The first part is going to be really positive, talking about all the beauty and good things. In the second part, I am going to roast the folks that were unprepared and complain a little bit. The purpose of this roast is partially for my own enjoyment and partially to reflect on how critical it is to be prepared when taking part in outdoor sport/activity.

I also post the second part to reflect on how travel requires a glass half full mindset. I mostly post on this blog the good things happening because it is what I want to focus on. That is what I HAVE to focus on. Truthfully, there is so much that isd constantly going wrong (it’s usually nothing major- missed connections, catching a cold, insomnia, etc). That is the truth of traveling (heck its the truth of life)! By choosing to focus on the good, I get to enjoy this adventure. Mindset is everything.

Speaking of mindset – when you think of trolls , what do you think? Norse mythology marks them as creatures that are hostile to man. But I mean… I saw Frozen. I also saw Harry Potter though. What is the true troll?!

Part 1

Wake-up: It is 6:00 AM when my alarm goes off. I wake up, or maybe I should say, I just get out of bed. I have been awake for hours because ya girl gets insomnia when she is nervous. It’s fine. I have hiked 14ers on four hours of sleep, and today is not a 14er. I also won’t need to think about navigation or supplies since I packed last night, and I am going with a guided group. I simply have to walk. I can do that!

Food and coffee: I brew up two cups of coffee into the thermos, and I make a bowl of porridge with banana, peanut butter, yogurt, honey, and cinnamon. Luckily, the nausea from my insomnia actually is making me hungry, so my appetite is not half bad this morning.

Getting there: I walk the 500m to the hotel and meet the guide, Sigrid, who will be shuttling half our group. She picks me and two girls up, checks we have the supplies we were required to pack, and we head to the trailhead where we will meet the last two in our group.

Starting strong: It is dark at the start. We go over the map together and sign our lives away (the good old liability form). There is a little store at the start to where Sigrid requires a couple to buy better mittens. I buy some hand-warmers because I have Raynaud’s syndrome, and every winter outing needs some hand-warmers. Then, Sigrid gives us all snow shoes, spikes, headlamps, and …. sleds? Turns out that we are dragging sleds for first 4km. It is a pain for the start, but Sigrid promises it is worth it for the way down.

Hike time: The first 3km are not easy. It is a steep uphill and we are dragging the sleds. I feel good enough, but 2km in, two of the girls decide today is not their day. They turn around and sled down. After 4km, we drop the sleds, and it is so relieving!

After 3km we reach the second parking lot. In the summertime, people can drive up here to start Trolltunga. Now, it is unaccessible to vehicles because of the snow. At this point we put on snow shoes. I have actually never used snowshoes before, but it is not hard by any means.

The trail details are boring me now, so here are a bunch of cool photos and we will cut to the chase. We got to the top (which was such a relief because I had DOUBTS), and we also got back to the bottom. During the hike, we learned about the trolls that lurk in the mountains! Legend has it that Trolltunga was named after a troll mythical creature that was confident that it wouldn’t turn into a rock after being exposed to the sun. She was also right that sledding down enhances the experience.

THIS IS TROLLTUNGA!
Sledding down = 10/10

We met at the hotel at 7am, and I was brought back to the hotel at 830pm. It took way longer than we expected. I was exhausted by the time I walked back to Vikinghaug. When I arrived, this was waiting ❤ I’m so lucky.

Fish stew w/ rice and also some extra fresh fish from the Fjord!

Part 2

Here is where we list everything that could have or did go wrong, and why it is so crucial to understand potential risks and how to mitigate them. Also, always talk to locals before attempting a hike or climb or whatever. BE SMART?!

Problem One: Two girls had to turn around 2km in. One girl was struggling from the start. We were making several stops, and I was already confident there was no way we’d make it to Trolltunga (we had a strict turn-around time of 3pm at the latest). Turns out this girl has asthma. She was having a hard time breathing. She didn’t have her inhaler with her (left in hotel). Not only did she have to turn around, but I encouraged her friend to go down with her as well. If she had an asthma attack, she was going to need someone else to call for help.

Lesson?: Know your limitations, and ALWAYS BRING CRITICAL MEDICATIONS.

Problem Two: A couple from New Jersey who have never really hiked before (let alone winter-hiked) thought they’d just book this tour without reading the details. I was nervous about them since the meeting the night before. During it, anytime the guide mentioned the distance or cold or risks, the two of their faces looked flabbergasted. Like really? This was all listed on the website….

Well…they did make it, but we were REALLY slow and almost did not get to the top. (We reached Trolltunga at 2:30 and the MAX time limit was 3:00). I would have been really upset if I wasn’t able to complete the hike because they didn’t know what they signed up for. Even after the gear meeting, they still did not come with good gloves and had to buy those from a shop at the bottom. At the end of the hike they told me…

Them : “I know why we were having such trouble”

Me: “Why’s that?”

Them: “We are 15 year smokers. But also since we did the hike today, our lungs are better”

Me: “Im not going to lecture you on smoking, but sadly thats not how it works. Going on a hike doesn’t cancel out cigarette smoking”

Them: “But it at leasts proves we haven’t done damage”

Me: Ya no. And you’ll have to see if you can still do this hike in 10 years.

Lesson?: Know what you are getting into. If the hike says difficult and not for inexperienced hikers, and if that is you…um maybe don’t do the hike? Or at least don’t do it in winter? Their difficulty with the hike almost made it so I couldn’t get to the top, and that’s not cool! Also don’t smoke.

Problem Three: Ok this was the craziest one. About 3km into our way down, we see three folks in the distance. When we catch up to them, it is now dark. These three boys have no headlamps, no snow shoes, no hiking poles, and of two of their cell phones are dead. The final cell phone is at 50%. The stupidity and gravity of their situation is insane. We were the ONLY other group on the trail at this point. We are 11ish km to the bottom. It has been snowing, so the path back is covered. It is also snow that goes up to your shin without snowshoes. Did I mention it is now pitch black outside? The guys ask if they can follow us. Basically, the guide told them she couldn’t really say no. It was either they follow us (and try to keep up despite not having the correct gear) or she calls the mountain rescue crew to come get them. Otherwise, they weren’t going to make it.

The whole way down, seven people shared three headlamps. I also loaned them my portable charger. If I thought we were slow before, we were REALLY slow now. These boys were obviously exhausted. When we got to the sleds, they had enough charge on their phones to light the last 4km walk. After packing up, we wait for them at the bottom to ensure they are ok. They are fine. BUT… they got here by taxi from their hotel, and they don’t have the ability to call for a taxi back (didn’t think that one through?) The guide calls them a taxi.

If it weren’t for Sigrid, these boys would have had to use the emergency shelters and gotten rescued.

Lesson?:

2 responses to “Trolltunga!”

  1. Sounds like your group may have averted more than one disaster… it’s crazy how people have such lack of preparation and knowledge (and thinking their lungs are getting better)… my daughter Jill worked 3 summers in New Hampshire on the Appalachian Trail– at three different huts where through hikers would stop for a hot meal and bunk– she had many many stories of carelessness, injury and just plain inconsideration– I was only able to hike up the first year as the next two summers were very dangerous day hikes and I knew better!! Love hearing about your adventures ❤️😎👍

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    1. Isn’t it!? Also the misinformation on the seriousness of smoking throughout Europe is mind boggling. That sounds so awesome though. Where did she work? And smart of you to know what your limitations were!

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